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Trekking in Nepal
People who love Switzerland generally love the mountains. And people who love mountains, sooner or later want to make their way to Nepal.
I've been to Nepal twice, the first time for a month-long trek around the Annapurnas in 2000, and the second time to Kala Pattar in the Everest region in 2004. I absolutely love it! It's a beautiful country filled with extremely friendly people, interesting and varied cultures, and unique experiences. The infrastructure is well established for travelers, with numerous hotels in both Kathmandu and the countryside, widespread knowledge of English, busses and flights to all parts of the country, and eager tourism professionals who want to provide you with a good experience. It's very affordable, Kathmandu is exotic and fun, and the trekking is outstanding.
Many people have heard of the fighting and unrest in Nepal, and it did exist. Maoist rebels at times have controlled much of the Nepalese countryside, virtually everything outside of Kathmandu valley and the Everest region, and clashes between rebels and police forces occur regularly. Even then though, this meant very little to the foreign traveler. While trekking in the Everest region in 2004, we did not have (nor did we expect) any problems whatsoever. Trekkers who'd been to Annapurna said they were required to pay the rebels a few dollars - the same as the government park fees - but they had no problems and were even given a receipt from the Maoists so they wouldn't be charged twice! Check on the current situation before you go, but don't be alarmed. Travel in Nepal is safe and rewarding.
And the good news is, the situation continues to improve. As of this writing (Nov 2006), the unpopular King has been forced to step aside, a democratically elected Parliament has taken the reigns, and the government and Maoists have signed a peace agreement and promised to seek peaceful solutions. The situation looks stable once again. Tourism in Nepal has taken a severe hit over the past few years because of uncertainty surrounding the Maoists, and now would be a wonderful time to visit.
Everest and Annapurna are the two most popular regions for trekking. From my trips to each, I think the mountains are slightly more spectacular in the Everest region (beautiful in both), but I enjoyed the cultural and ecological diversity of the Annapurna region quite a bit more. Both were great. Kathmandu is a lot of fun for a couple of days, with good restaurants, any kind of books or trekking gear you need, and an exotic atmosphere... and a daytrip from there to Bhaktapur (just a few miles away) is a must. If you want to stay in style in Kathmandu, the Hotel Dwarikas is gorgeous, although there are other very adequate options for a lot less. My very good guide was Lakhbir Rai (more about that below). Also, you can read more about Nepal on the Lonely Planet Nepal page.
Hiring a Guide
I think Nepal is a place where you can really benefit by hiring a guide. A good local guide can teach you about the people, language and region, can help arrange porters and inns, and will prove his weight in gold in helping to arrange transportation to and from the trekking areas (seriously, you do not want to attempt internal flights without a guide). It will improve your trip and give you a chance to give back to the local community by creating much-needed tourism jobs. I've used local porters and guides on both trips to Nepal, and would definitely do it again. Many people go with the large trekking companies, and they offer good tours, but they also charge a lot of money for them. These companies all work through local trekking agencies anyway, so why not hire locally at a fraction of the cost?
On my trip to Everest in 2004, I followed recommendations from friends that led me to Lakbir Rai, owner and head guide of Nature Adventure Treks, and would like to now pass that recommendation on. He was an outstanding guide - friendly, knowledgeable, helpful, with good language skills (English, German and some French), and a fun sense of humor. He was well-known and obviously well-regarded in the region, having grown up nearby. With him, we were able to keep our itinerary open, and we often strayed from our original "plan". We were introduced to people and places we wouldn't have seen otherwise, and had an unforgettable time overall. Unless you're eager to hang out with large groups of foreigners, don't waste your money on an expensive group tour. Contact a reputable local guide - you would do very well with Lakhbir and his family - who will work just as a guide for your trek if you like, or can set up an all-inclusive trip from the moment you arrive at the airport.
While you're there, you can't help but notice that Nepal is a very poor country. They did not have much to begin with, and the recent political struggles have hurt tourism - their main industry - quite a lot. I'd urge you to consider helping out by contributing to some of the good humanitarian work being done there. The dZi Foundation supports schools, girls safe home, and dental care clinics and is one good choice for a group that deserves the support of people who love Nepal and it's people.
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